We will here deal with problems, that can occur to decals, and how to solve them.
3. Cracked decals.
4. Decals out of size.
5. Decals with poor registration.
Today yellowing of decals is only occurring when a wrong type of carrier warnish is used.
It is often seen on old types of decals, as yellowing is a result of oxidation, or the influence of thalates (the softener found in plastic bags (or old tires, that "sweat")). To prevent yellowing allways take Your decals out of the plastic bag at once, and remove them from "sweating" tires, (and do not forget to put them in a flat and dry place); for instance a photobook serves as a brilliant decal saver.
If You have a decal sheet, that has turned yellow, You can either partly or totally remove the yellowing of the warnish, by hanging Your decals in the window, facing out, with a piece of cellotape, and expose them to the sun for several weeks. This will bleach the warnish on most types of decals.
Stiffness of decals is also a result of using the wrong type of carrier warnish.
In most cases, the use of decal softener is the answer.
Following are the three most widely used:
2. MICROSOL (red or blue).
3. MR. GUNZE.
The use of these three types normally solves the problem.
You can also, in addition, put the decal in very hot water, but be carefull, and try with a sample first, as this operation may soften the decal too much.
It is commonly known, the warmer the water is, the more soft will the decal be when mounting, but the flexibility disappears again when the decal cools off, so you must be fast when applying a decal with this method.
If You are applying for instance a long stribe around a model, it is advisory to use a brush to apply the softener, as you work Your way around ths model.
Cracked decals is the result of stiff decals stored wrong in the box; bended or folded.
You can with a trained eye see if the decal is cracked before You dissolve them in water, being put into water it is too late to repair.
Use the following tip to repair cracked decals:
Fold out the decal sheet with 4 pins on a piece of wood or cardboard; one in each corner, and spray the sheet with a clear automotive warnish, and let dry well. Before applying, cut along the motif and dip into water as usual, but note that it takes a little longer for the water to penetrate the decal paper. And for gods sake do NOT apply warnish to the back side of the decal sheet, as the water will not be able to penetrate the decal paper.
Decals out of size, is very hard to repair, especially if they are too large. What concerns stribes, they can in some cases be cut up, and applied as a patchwork, but it is time consuming and stressing.
Stribes too small, might also be cut up, an filled between the edges with a carefully mixed tin can colour.
Poorly registred decals is hard to repair too, they migth be cut apart and replaced with each other, normally they only can be replaced by aftermaket decals, if the motif exists.
TO BE CONTINUED.